Wood-turning workshop
Oct. 23rd, 2022 04:41 pmThere is a ‘creative entrepreneur hub’ in the city, not far from where we live. It’s located in one of the old industrial buildings, which are all being repurposed, so the workshops tend to move around a bit. Big machinery gets shared, which makes it possible for smaller workshops to take on bigger projects they would otherwise could not.
Some of these workshops presented themselves on a “Maker’s Market” some time ago, and one of those was Suzan Doornbos, who makes objects from turned wood. This was something we had been curious about (there’s a shop in Arnhem that has all kinds of woodworking stuff, and we had been peeking through their windows at several occasions) and when I saw that she offered workshops, I took one of her cards to check it out.
So yesterday we went to her workshop to learn the basics of turning wood. There were three ‘students’: me, klik, and someone who had been making furniture for some time and who wanted to expand her repertoire.
(Also, I like the Dutch word ‘draaibank’ much better than the English ‘lathe’. ‘Draaibank’ literally means ‘turning bench’, which is so much more descriptive.)

We started off with a rectangular block of wood. Determine the center and then clamp it into the lathe.

An overview of the ‘turning station’ I used. When rotating the block by hand, in order to see that it would not bump into the ‘tool shelf’, I noticed that the rotation speed (the four-number display on the left) was measured independently from the motor input — it counted the rotations I did by hand. That makes a lot of sense, as you don’t have to calibrate motor input so carefully.

Safety first! I look so fashionable in this…

Using a very coarse chisel, we chipped off the square edges to make the block round. Hard work, but once you got the feeling it wasn’t so bad.

Still a bit uneven, but we’d use a much smaller chisel with much finer control to fix that. And really, you only can get fine details in once the block is rounded. The trick is to let the chisel glide across the wood, and you can’t do that if it’s not rounded off!

With a much finer chisel, we made the block much smoother and more even. I had one little spot that still was straight. That was pointed out repeatedly, but I thought it would be cool to have one spot that reminded you that it all started out as a rectangular block of wood. (Spoiler: when finishing up the piece, I had to turn quite a bit of wood from that spot and I think it’s now completely gone. Too bad!)

Then we learned how to make a deep cut. Not too deep, of course, otherwise you’d have two pieces instead of one… We used pencil lines as guides.

And another cut made! The cuts can’t be straight down, because then the chisel gets too much friction from the sides of the ‘groove’ it is cutting, so you have to make smaller cuts next to it to give it room to go deeper.

Then we learned how to ’round off’ one side. The movement is kinda tricky, so this first side is kinda straight. And once the wood has come off, you can’t add it back!

The other side went much better! And it was not just me, everyone’s second side was better. Still, amazing how fast you can learn something like this. The cuts to the left and right are still rough, but of course I’d finish that up later with a much smaller chisel.

Working very concentrated on getting the round shape right…

Then we learned how to make a ‘hollow’. This was much harder, and my chisel ran away a few times. That left deep grooves on other parts of the block, so I had to carefully turn those away again, to make it smooth again. You can see that the cut below the round part has been smoothed out too.

All the heavy lifting has now been done. The piece is still a bit rough around the edges, so I took a very fine chisel to finish it up.

The end result: this is as good as I was going to get it. Next was the sanding, with grit 180, 240 and 320 respectively. After the sanding it was really nice and smooth!

This is how our work came out of the lathe. Because there is always a bit of wood where the center-points go in, the ends are never smooth — so these candle holders are still wobbly! That would be fixed with a drill though. And there would also be a metal bit inserted at the top to hold the candle, so that the wood would not burn if the candle burned down too low! My work is on the left: I decided I wanted the round part on top. Klik’s work is on the right, and she wanted the hollow part on top.

This is the finished work of all the workshop participants. Mine on the left, Klik’s in the middle. The other participant had shaved her piece too far down to have the metal candle holder drilled all the way into the piece, as it was wider than the narrow part on top of her rounded part, so the metal bit sticks out.
It was a lot of fun, and I am amazed at how quickly you can learn the basics! Suzan also offers a second workshop to learn how to turn a wooden box, and that might be something for the future…
Crossposted from my blog. Comment here or at the original post.







